Duero

Our first stop after the Camino Mozarabe was the small town of Aranda de Duero which is the capital of the Ribera del Duero wine region, one of our favorite red wines.
Below the town is honeycombed with wine cellars, some 800 years old. It's a fabulous wine drinking place with lots of bars, great food and wine and the first place we've found that has tapas all day.
The famous Lechazo, unweaned baby lamb slow cooked in a wood fired oven, melts in your mouth.
Saturday afternoon a jazz band was making its way around the bars too. Lots of slightly drunken people but no agro. Actually we might have been two of them.
Looney Planet describes it as "an unattractive town on the crossroads"! We loved it.

The front of the church took 20 years to carve, finished in 1520

Steps leading from the 15th century cellar up to the restaurant

Lechazo, slow cooked baby lamb, coming out of the oven

We walked about 30k over 2 days following the GR 14 along the Duero River

Food without wine is breakfast!



Next stop on the Duero - Peñafiel, the center of Riibera del Duero wine production. Funny thing though, all the bars are shut on a Monday. In any case nobody offers any "tastings"; the locals prefer beer and Rioja wine is cheaper. We had to content ourselves with a couple of local bottles from a specialist wine shop and scored one of the best reds we've ever experienced.
Peñafiel's a small town of 5,000 sitting beneath a picturesque white stone castle 200 meters long but only 20 meters wide. The oldest plaza in Spain is here, with a dirt floor and still used for bullfights. There's 2 monasteries and 4 churches including the 12th century Gothic Mudéjar San Pablo (in the middle ages there were 19 churches!)
Nothing much to do so we walked 16k one day and 12k the next along the delightful Duero River.

Peñafiel's medieval Plaza del Coso below the Castle

Peñafiel Castle is only 20 meters wide (but 200 meters long)

Chimney vents for the Bodegas (wine cellars) dug into the hill below the Castle

Traditional house in Peñafiel

12th century Gothic Mudéjar San Pablo Monastery

Senda del Duero (path beside the Duero River)

Ribera del Duero (means banks of the Duero) - grape growing region